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August 2014
01 August 2014
Four other campers in last night for a peaceful night and we awoke in time to get up for sunrise photo's of the surrounding area before a lazy start to the day.
Early morning sun on the area surrounding our campsite.
The MacDonnell ranges were the subject of the famous aboriginal painter Albert Namatjira whose name the road we are traveling is named after, and having seen some pictures of his paintings it is no wonder he was famous, the subject and inspiration for his paintings is very pleasant on the eye.
Leaving our camp we headed 10km's or so down the road to the Ellery Creek Bighole in the National Park. Taking the turnoff we were immediately on a very typical (un-kept) National Park dirt road which required a slow and easy goes it approach, but a couple of kilometres later the view was well worth the slow trip in.
Parking up we took the short walk down a well paved pathway to the subject of many photographs and for those brave enough to do so, swim's which one German decided to do because he could and needless to say he came out quicker than he went in.
Ellery Creek Big Hole
We spent the whole morning here enjoying the view, taking photo's, walking and then sitting in the sun before finally leaving for our intended campsite just a few more km's along. We could have camped here for about $5 a person so might think about that for the return trip.
Following the ranges and after a huge day's travel of 34km's, we turned up the hill off of Namatjira Drive and came to the Neil Hargrave Lookout where we had the place to ourselves. Knowing that the wind is forecast to get up and the temperature to drop overnight we chose a spot off the side of the main area near a small tower and protected by bush rather than the prime spot at the lookout where the wind will make for a very cold night. A quick walk around with the long handled tongs to pick up and dispose of the toilet paper and other litter around the place then it was time to relax. As time went on a slide on/off and a motorhome came in, both accepting our invite to join us in our protected area (we thought we'd choose our neighbours rather than ending up with the whiz-bangs and backpackers that have since come in and taken over the windy prime spot :)
Once the sunset was over the view along the MacDonnell Ranges to the East was magnificent and seen only through long exposures on the camera but the relentless cold wind made sure we were inside as soon as the shots were taken.
02 August 2014
The wind didn't abate at all during the night but our spot protected by the bush lessened the impact and judging by the shouts and exclamations from the backpackers as they rose this morning it was a cold night in their vehicles. We left our camp after enjoying a cold view of Mt Sonder off to the West which had been so brilliantly illuminated by the sunset last night.
Our first stop was the Ochre Pits, a local aboriginal area where the different layers of colours that have been exposed through erosion on the side if the creek have been used for ceremonies for many years. A short walk to and then up the creek bringing us to a small rock face of differing colours.
Ochre Pit
From the Ochre Pits it was onto Ormiston Gorge where we parked up and took a short walk to the river and down it to the Gorge itself, the whole area just stunning in the clear morning light.
Looking down the river towards the Gorge.
As far as we went into the Gorge because water covers the rest of the way.
It was hard to leave the beauty of Ormiston Gorge and it was tempting to take up a camp spot and spend the rest of the day there. Heading West once more we drove to Tylers Pass where the National Park ends and a permit is required to continue through Aboriginal Land to Kings Canyon on what has been told to us as a very bad dirt road. We stopped at the lookout and spoke with Murray and Di from Halls Head who had come across the Great Central Road to the Olga's, Ayers Rock, Kings Canyon and now here in their 4x4 and camper.
Goose Bluff Meteor Crater from Tylers Pass.
We almost called it a day there and camped but the wind being up and the small parking area turned us off so we turned around and started our trip back to Alice Springs, stopping at the Redbank Gorge for a look and then to camp.
The road in to the camping area was quite good and from there on it was mountain goat country. We negotiated the steep downhill to the parking area and found a parking spot that we were happy to leave the motorhome in knowing that it was not too steep for us to find it on its side when we returned and headed off down the 20 minute one way walk.
The trip to this gorge was not an easy one and after descending into the river we negotiated the soft river sand and then the large rocks and boulders to, after what seemed to be more than 1.2km, reach the gorge. Well, the walk was worth the effort and we spent some time there admiring the view, resting and contemplating the return trip.
Approaching the gorge via the riverbed.
Redbank Gorge where the water disappears down a zig zag and out to somewhere else.
There was some thought to wading through the water to see how far it actually went but a judgement on the depth kept us high and dry. So back up and over the rocks and through the river sand and then with a slight run up we were back up at the campground selecting a spot in the sun and one that would give us a good view of the range at sunset.
03 August 2014
We have been spoilt with beautiful views, campsites and weather on this part of the trip and while it has been cool of a night the days have been as magnificent as the view. The campsites on the top of the hill at Redbank Gorge were all full last night. A few campers went back down the the gorge early this morning as we enjoyed an egg and bacon breakfast before heading off to see another gorge, this time at Glen Helen.
Turning off the highway we passed two helicopters awaiting their tourist passengers at the entrance to the Glen Helen Resort. We are not quite sure how it is a resort but it has a camping/caravan and glamping area for those wishing to stay there.
The Glen Helen Gorge.
Closer to the main gorge and water body.
The resort backs onto this and it's not a bad view.
The resort is in an excellent position in the National Park and after parking near the reception area we walked down to and along the Finke riverbed until we reached the gorge itself where we spent some time looking around and taking photographs.
Leaving Glen Helen we stopped for a look at Mt Sonder from the lookout and the 2 mile camp down on the banks of the Finke River where if we had a 4x4 motorhome we would have been able to spend a week enjoying the river and the view of the mountain.
Along the way we enjoyed the various views of the surrounding ranges especially these shapes that went on for quite some time before we arrived at one of our previous camps at the Neil Hargrave Lookout to relax for the rest of the day.
04 August 2014
Not so many campers as the last time we were there but nevertheless we all enjoyed another stunning view of Mt Sonder off in the distance as the sun set and turned it pink, the sky turning a bright yellow before fading into darkness and the one quarter moon took over illuminating our surrounds.
Mt Sonder in pink under a yellow sunset sky
A peaceful night and we were off to see another of the sights along Namatjira Drive, this time it was Serpentine Gorge. Arriving at the road in we had only gone a few yards before we were wondering of we should continue. The track was like driving in a riverbed but this one had large rocks and boulders sticking up just waiting to give us a puncture. The 3 km drive in was mainly in first and sometimes second gear and with a reasonably narrow track it was hard to take the easy path.
Arriving at the carpark as a group of hikers were about to head off along the Larapinta Trail we made our way along the 1.3km track to where the gorge is located, lots of little zebra finches chattering away and not even bothering to move away from us as we walked. After about a kilometre we could see the top of the gorge starting to come into view and then there was the start of a stunning view.
The trail opens up onto the riverbed and our first real view of the gorge.
and the view just got better...
and better...the sunlight at the end making the cool of the shade even cooler in the early morning.
Joanne decided that she wanted to see what was behind the gorge and took the short hike up to the lookout for a view out the back, and this is what she saw.
it would be nice to see this when the water is flowing down and into the gorge itself.
So after gorging ourselves on the sights we made out way back to AJ and took the slow trip back along the stony track and back onto the bitumen again. A few kilometres later we were glad to be taking up the same spot as before at the Point Howard Rest area as a strong headwind began to take hold. With any luck it will blow itself out overnight and we will have an easy trip back to Alice Springs which is about 80 kilometres away.
05 August 2014
Well the wind did lessen a little overnight but was there again in the morning to make our trip back into Alice Springs just that little bit harder. Back in the big smoke we spent some time giving the motorhome a thorough wash at the carwash to get rid of half the Oodnadatta Track and all the other roads we have been down since we left Pinnaroo before some shopping and dropping into one of the caravan parks in town for the night to catch up on washing and all that other domestic stuff.
06 August 2014
Our first caravan park in some time and it wasn't too bad. Leaving early this morning the plan was to do a proper shop to top up the food, wine and fuel and then hit the road, but as things often do, they changed.
Shopping done but no wine as all the grog shops open at 2pm as part of controlling the drinking around town by the locals, and which according to a local Policeman has reduced the incidents of hospital visits and Police intervention by 46% since its inception. Anyway, we did some sightseeing, visited the local hardware to say hello to the owners for one of Joanne's brothers and then some more sightseeing before arriving back for "opening time".
Alice Springs sits on the North side of the MacDonnell Ranges as seen from the top of Anzac Hill.
The break in the range that the road and railway come in through can just be seen in the middle.
The Original Alice Springs is a waterhole at the base of a granite rock and was found on 11 March 1871 by the Overland Telegraph Surveyor W. Mills who named the spot (which is adjacent to the Telegraph Station Complex) after the wife of the Postmaster General and Superintendent of Telegraphs.
The Alice Springs Telegraph Station Complex.
So sightseeing, food and wine shopping over we filled up with fuel ($1.759) and headed out of town for a campsite and entering the open speed limit area of the NT. It was tempting to see how fast AJ would go but fuel economy is the name of the game so...we didn't.
Arriving at the rest area on the Tropic of Capricorn we decided to camp here, camping North of the line for the warmer weather :)
Marker on the Tropic of Capricorn.
07 August 2014
Seven of us enjoyed a peaceful night on the TOC,the road trains almost non existent from about 9pm. The moon is taking over the night sky reducing the milky way to a few stars.
And at night with the moon overhead strong enough to cast shadows on the marker.
Heading North we had a tailwind that was helping with the fuel consumption quite nicely until later in the morning when it swung around to the side making driving and fuel consumption less appealing. The new Adelaide to Darwin railway runs along here and so it was nice to actually see the Ghan passing us on it's way South, the Red locomotive with its large white Ghan name on it puling the silver carriages and car carrier bringing up the rear .
Stopping in the rest area at Ryan's Well we stretched our legs and inspected the stone well and then crossed the road to inspect the remains of the Glen Maggie Homestead.
The remains of Ryan's Well.
The story and information on Ryan's Well.
The ruins of Glen Maggie homestead.
The story and information on Glen Maggie.
Leaving Ryan's Well and Glen Maggie to bask in the sunshine we eventually came to the Aileron Roadhouse where we stopped to inspect the large statue of an Anmatjere Aboriginal Man stood high up on a hill behind the roadhouse and then in the grounds nearby a large Aboriginal Woman and child with a large Goanna.
Aileron Roadhouse with the large Aboriginal on the hill (between the flag poles)
A closer look at the man on the hill
The large Aboriginal Woman and child.
Height unknown but the fence in the foreground is 6 feet high.
Leaving Aileron we stopped at Prowse Gap Rest Area where we enjoyed a break, a coffee and a chat with the contractor who cleans the rest area toilets, empties the bins, fills the water tank and in the afternoon gives campers firewood to stop then chopping down trees.
Battling some more wind we came to the town of Ti-Tree which consists of a number of houses, a roadhouse with a caravan park and an old historic pub. The town was filed with Aboriginals and the only thing that outnumbered them were the caravans, campers and motorhome's at the roadhouse with a fair few heading over to the pub and the sign on the fence that said "Free Camping". But with nothing taking our fancy we drove on enjoying a small period of phone signal before it was gone then battling the wind until we came to the John McDouall Stuart Memorial Cairn and Rest Area around lunchtime and where we took up residence near the fence and away from the attractions. This location is of significance because Stuart, using a sextant figured that this was the geographical center of Australia.
08 August 2014
The weather sure has changed to the warmer side of the scale and we are not complaining. Overnight the air had that little cold nip to it which is so refreshing and we awoke to a nice clear day, and wind again.
Approaching our first stop at Barrow Creek we were pleasantly surprised to see the nice ranges in the area with their bright red ramparts along the top. The ranges seemed to funnel into Barrow Creek no doubt supplying the Taylor River with water when it rains. If it were not for the old Telegraph Station still being there we would have driven right on through Barrow Creek which consists of the old pub come service station come whatever else and a couple of houses, none of which were anything to write home about.
We took a walk around and through the old buildings which are now empty, read the information provided and drove on.
The information board says it all.
Not long out of Barrow Creek we passed a small white cross with flowers supported by a pile of rocks and surmised it was the place where British backpacker Peter Falconio went missing when he and partner Joanne Lee's were attacked. The countryside around losing the striking hills that are around Barrow Creek and turning into flat open bush with nothing remarkable to see.
Wycliffe Well came on the horizon and we pulled in for a look at the caravan park/pub/store which also claims to be Australia's UFO capital. The caravan park looked nice with its watered green lawns and at $25 a night seemed reasonable, but...we didn't want to be abducted by aliens so drove on to the Devils Marbles where for $6.60 we found ourselves the most level site we could (they all slope one way or another) and set up camp.
Lunch and then a walk around the area for about 3 hours passed the afternoon away and provided some idea's for moon lit marble photography for tonight.
One of the many rock formations in the area.
Stunning view after stunning view.
The power of water finding its way into a crack.
The campground was full of life as evening came and the 27 or so campers were all enjoying their time, more so because the temperature was very pleasant. Shade fell over the campground as the sun dipped below the height of the rocks and then the horizon, the moon rose and the Devils Marbles took on a different look as Orion's Belt showed along the horizon.
Orion's Belt over the rocks just 50m from our campsite.
Startrails to the North over the same rocks.
09 August 2014
We awoke and contemplated a day off here but after a shower and breakfast decided to move on, first stop Tennant Creek where we used the new dump point, topped up with fuel and water did a short trip down memory lane and drove out to The Pebbles, sort of a smaller version of the Devils Marbles. The wind is still blowing so we scouted around to find a spot where the wind wouldn't fill us up with sand and where the panels would get the best sun.
10 August 2014
Day off at The Pebbles while the wind blew and blew and we were glad we were not battling it, and it seemed that a number of caravans and campers had the same idea about the wind.
11 August 2014
The wind continued to blow overnight and the only thing worth noting was the larger than normal full moon last night. We were up early and with what seemed to be a lighter wind made our way back to the highway and then onto Three ways where we turned right onto the Barkley Highway and headed towards Queensland. With a strengthening wind we drove the 70km's to the rest area at 41 mile bore, arriving before most had left.
We found ourselves a spot and set up camp for the day, enjoying breakfast and getting a few chores done before sitting back to watch TV on the satellite. More and more campers came in, including a German cyclist, as the wind kept up its relentless onslaught.
12 August 2014
A peaceful but windy night and we awoke to the thought of a battling a headwind again. Most campers left as later as they could probably hoping the wind would abate but with a high pressure cell across the country there is no hope of that happening today.
Like the others we eventually pointed our nose into the wind and started off. The wind didn't seem to bad but the gusts from oncoming trucks sure let us know which way the wind was blowing. We passed the cyclist as he seemingly tacked (wobbled) across the road trying to find some relief and wind assistance though mostly fighting to stay upright. We commented on how we remembered how that felt and wondered if he would get his 100km per day in today.
Text messages arriving let us know we were near the Barkley Homestead/Roadhouse and after another 30km we, like most others pulled in. We stopped for coffee break, to read emails and text messages and then dropped 20 litres into the tank for insurance against the wind before we stuck our nose back out into the wind.
Wikicamps showed an abandoned Telstra microwave tower about 30 km's out from Barkley so we decided to investigate it as a possible campsite. The turn off came and we took the narrow dirt road about half a kilometre off the road to where the tower sits in an open compound with two open buildings and a dumped old caravan next to it. We still had one bar on the phone and so decided to stick ourselves in the compound gateway where the buildings could block some of the wind and where we had a good escape route if we needed one, set up camp and even got some washing done.
If you have ever talked on a phone from Townsville, Darwin or Mt Isa, your voice came through this facility.
13 August 2014
Leaving our peaceful camp we were back into the wind as we made our way to Camooweal passing a number of other rest areas along the way. Closer to Camooweal we left the bush behind and battled the wind across the open grass plains that stretch as far as the eye can see. Some 20 kilometres out of town we crossed the border into Queensland.
The council in Camooweal have kindly provided a dump point and water taps and in adjacent park another three water taps, so we used both and headed off back out of town to the Georgina River where we found around 50 campers around the waterhole that is all remains of the last flow. We set up camp and then realised that we were not where we really wanted to be which is further downstream on the banks of what is known as Lake Canellan.
Our move was a good one and we left the other campers behind to take up a spot on our own with all of the water to ourselves, the closest group nearest to us being about 200m away.
14 August 2014
We enjoyed a brilliantly star studded sky last night before the moon got up and lit up the sky. With such a good spot we have decided to enjoy a few days off here and with any luck the wind will also die down by the time we leave.
The night sky over Camooweal and our closest neighbours last night.
So today has been taken up with photographs, a walk and watching TV.
18 August 2014
After a lazy four days at our waterside camp we decided to leave and make or way towards Mount Isa. Heading out of our camp we counted 70 other campers lined up along the banks of the two waterhole's that are Lake Francis and Canellan in the Georgina River, most of which were at Lake Francis and closer to town. Each day there were many vehicles coming down to where we were at Lake Canellan but they all went on further or back the way they came which just mean't we were left in peace.
Stopping in town to use dump point and then over to the park to top up our water again we crossed the town cattle grid and headed off into the wind again. Passing the waterhole at 92 mile camp, an old WWII maintenance site where we camped at on our cycle trip we finally arrived at the WWII Airfield site rest area some 50km West of Mt Isa. Locating a spot down the back as most of those there were leaving we settled in for an easy day before we hit the big smoke tomorrow.
19 August 2014
A change of mind overnight mean't we stayed another day here at our camp just 50km out of Mt Isa. Almost all of last night's campers left this morning and they have been replaced slowly by more this afternoon. So tomorrow should see us visit Mt Isa to top up on a few things before heading out again to camp.
20 August 2014
We were up and on the road early this morning trying to get some kilometres in before the wind got up, especially as we were running low on fuel and the wind would not help the fuel economy.
Following the very nice spinifex and white gum covered hills, ridges and ranges we made our way into Mt Isa with the old highway running alongside. Fuel at $1.579 was nice after the prices through the middle of the country and so after filling up we made our way to a quiet spot in town (near the cemetery) where we enjoyed a nice shower and had breakfast before replenishing our water and doing some shopping.
Neither of us could make our minds up as to which way we wanted to go so we took the easy option and followed the highway to the location of the MAry Kathleen Ghost Town where we have camped before. Having been here before we knew that the old swimming pool area was the best for sun for the solar panels so we were hoping to snag that and if not our second choice was the floor of the old lawn bowls clubhouse.
22 August 2014
It's been a lazy few days here at Mary Kathleen with nothing of note except the weather has been sunny and warm. Joanne took a walk for a look at some of the place we haven't seen and came across some old vehicles including this one.
Wonder who used to drive around in this?
The stars and milky way here at night are fabulous and sitting outside for our meal last night mean't staying outside to watch and photograph the stars.
Looking South and over our nearest neighbours
25 August 2014
Leaving our peaceful campsite at Mary Kathleen we made our way back into Mt Isa to use the dump point, to fill our water tanks and top up our food before heading South towards Boulia.
With a side/headwind we made our way along the singe lane bitumen road which took us through the white gum and spinifex covered hills, across the flat open grassy plains and back into the hills again towards Dajarra where we have camped before. On the way we passed a number of vehicles from the Variety Bash as they made their way to Mt Isa. Vehicles of all types (including a Rolls Royce) dressed up in various themes, flags and other paraphernalia.
YIPYIO slowed and moved over to allow us through
Arriving in Dajarra we were the first to snag a powered site and set up, the other 20 campers all coming in at various stages to grab the remaining three power points and the best of the unpowered spots.
29 August 2014
Moving on from Dajarra after a peaceful and enjoyable two day stop we made our way through some very picturesque landscape and after considering a couple of campsites arrived in Boulia and a spot down on the Burke River. This is a great camping spot with a nice open area near near the entrance and there are a number of shady campsites down along the river which at the moment is more like a series of large waterhole's.
We took up a sunny spot with four others already in camp and were surprised to find none of the shady spots near the water taken and only half a dozen people in. We both took a walk and considered a move to a waterside camp but the lack of sunlight both for warmth and the solar panels mean't we just stayed where we are. A number of others came in and only a couple took the shady spots for their overnight stay.
The view a short walk from our camp
and a little further down towards town
Not far from the river and the campsites is this wooden structure which Joanne managed to capture perfectly.
The Birdsville Races are on next weekend and that might explain why there are plenty of people going through town but hardly anyone staying, though we are not complaining because we get the place all to ourselves.
With about a month to go before we start work on the wheat harvest again it seems that our travel has begun to slow somewhat and that we are going to spend a number of nights in these campsites and it is a very relaxing time doing so.
Last night's stars and Milky Way were fabulous and a look outside before bed just fuelled the passion for photographing them and this is the result.
Looking to the South, the Starts of the Southern Cross visible in the middle just above the trees and below the black hole.
31 August 2014
Yesterday, before leaving Boulia we managed to take AJ through the weed control wash down area ( concrete wash down slab with a water tank, pump and long hose) which meant we got all the dust off the roof and sides as well as any weeds and seeds underneath. Water, supermarket and fuel stops ($1.799 c/l) and we were on our way along the Kennedy Development Road heading towards Winton in the opposite direction to our last trip across this neck of the woods. Well, it would be woods but there is not much out here except dead grass tussocks for as far as the eye can see, cattle and of course the single lane bitumen road.
We eventually arrived at the ruins of the Hamilton Hotel where we had camped before and as we were the only ones here managed to get the same campsite as last time, right next to the concrete floor of one of the old out buildings, three other campers coming in later on.
The site has changed a little since we were there last with another two water tanks and a large concrete cattle trough being installed, though not in use. Once again the sky was brilliant though with the lack of clouds for the spectacular sunset (see here on 23 July 2013 for the picture) it was the chance for the stars, milky way and the windmill to shine.
The picture says it all really.
And with such a nice sot to camp we decided on a second night there and so settled in for the day as the other campers all left leaving the place all to us. With the sun heating the pipes it was time to enjoy a shower in the facilities albeit a short one, the arrival of the cold water the signal to finish off and get out. Later on another three campers came in and set up, two of which we were camped near at Boulia. Later on a triple trailered cattle road train came out of the dirt road that goes to McKinley from behind the rest area, the driver slowed to a stop and then crawled out past us to ensure his dust didn't cause us any problems, so a wave of thanks was provided in return.
Once again and despite the cloudless sky the sunset was very nice before the moon began to take over and light the sky.
A cloudless sunset to end the month, but beautiful nevertheless.
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.
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